More Relaxation

Another rendition of the Relax A Little pattern from Cutting Line Designs.  I am very please to have this one finished.  It went together quicker and easier than the first one.  Even better, it’s made from stash fabric, that’s been aging for over a year.  Happy Dance!

I shortened the pattern by 2 inches, and it is still about mid calf length.  I am fine with that, as I plan to wear it with boots.  I think the swishy black skirt will be a nice complement to beaded sweaters for the holidays.  The fabric is a jacquard weave, which adds interest, but is an absolute beast to photograph.  The picture at left was lightened considerably to try and show the pattern.  Doesn’t work too well, even with all the tweaking.

The fiber make up is some sort of cotton blend, I think.  Or maybe a rayon blend.  I couldn’t quite tell from the burn test.  The shop said it was silk, but that isn’t the case – it doesn’t have the grabbiness that silk does.

Relax

Relax a Little

There was sewing over the long weekend at Casa Thunderpaws.  In fact, it was a brand new pattern with brand new(ish) fabric!  This is Relax a Little from Cutting Line Design patterns.  I picked it up when I went to the Louise Cutting workshop a while back.

The pattern is über easy to make.  I was amazed!  The fitting is very simple, with great directions for doing so.  The sewing even more so, with pockets no less!

The photo at left shows how invisible the pockets are.  They are in the side seams, but don’t have any of the bulk that you normally get with in-seam pockets.  The pocket bag is a single layer, cut as one with the back of the skirt, which helps to eliminate seams.  At right, you can see where I tucked my label into one of the pockets.

The fabric is something called Brussels Washer, which is a linen/rayon blend.  Be warned, this stuff shrinks, so you need to run it through the washer and dryer several times before cutting anything out, which I did.  The elastic at the waist was very simple to install.  A couple rows of stitching to hold it in place, then a zap with a steamy iron to “whoosh” everything into place.  Whoosh is a technical term…but you knew that.

Let’s see, what else is there to say?  The pattern runs long.  Very long.  I made it the out-of-the-envelope length to see where it would hit.  Once hemmed, it’s about 6 inches above the floor on me.  The next one will be shorter.

There was also sewing of gifties, but I can’t show those to you yet.  Patience grasshopper, patience.

Weekend with Louise – Sunday

Sunday, as I mentioned, was a Sit and Sew.  We arrived armed with our sewing machines and sample fabric mostly pre-cut to the necessary size.  Sometimes a little larger, sometimes smaller, but it all worked.

Today we would build ourselves a sample book.  Something to refer back to when our brains became filled with the trivia of daily life, and the wonderful techniques Louise demonstrated were pushed out in favor of the hoi polloi.  Hoi Polloi!  I say, who needs it!

What were all these samples?  Why, the techniques and hints that Louise had discussed the previous day.  Having taken a class from her before, I did have some of them.  But, there was one in particular, about constructing collar stands that I really wanted to learn – having tried to do so from print media and been woefully unsuccessful.

Well, wouldn’t you know it, this was the very last sample we made, and it was worth it.  Absolutely and completely!

Once again, our hosts, 35th Avenue Sew and Vac provided consumables – as in snacks and lunch.    Delicious!  I think they were a bit surprised at how quickly their garment supplies disappeared, not to mention the fabric.

A lovely, exhausting, engergizing weekend!

Weekend with Louise

This past weekend, one of our local quilting shops, 35th Avenue Sew and Vac joined forces with our local ASG chapter to present Louise Cutting, the originator of Cutting Line Design.  I’ve taken a class from Louise before, but this was an opportunity not to be missed.

Saturday was a combination lecture and trunk show, and Sunday was a sit and sew.  Both days were absolutely delightful!

Saturday morning we arrived bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, armed with note pads, writing implements and cash.  There were patterns to purchase!  There were techniques to write down!  There were tips and hints to be scribbled, and scribble we did.  There was even (gasp!) quality garment fabric available.

Louise was her usual humorous and informative self.  There was a whole table of samples showcasing both high-end designer techniques as well as those captured from the ready-to-wear industry, and included in her patterns.

Louise explained each and every one, often providing amusing anecdotes about how she unearthed that particular technique.  Apparently shopping in the designer section of Neiman Marcus is not for the faint of heart…or uninventive.  She also provided great insight into why we “ladies of a certain age” have such fitting concerns.

Our hosts, 35th Avenue were also wonderful and gracious.  Lunch was included, as were morning and afternoon snacks.  Learning is hungry business!

I’d also like to give a very heartfelt Thank You to 35th Avenue Sew and Vac.  They have primarily been a supplier to the quilters in the area, so making a foray into garment sewing was quite a step outside their comfort zone.  I do hope they found this adventure as beneficial as I did.  I also hope they continue to stock quality garment fabric.  Hint!  Hint!

By the end of the day our brains were abuzz with ideas while our bodies were quite exhausted.  A good time was had by all.

Cutting Line Designs: In the Trenches

Flora wears Cutting Line Designs In the Trenches

Cutting Line Designs is the pattern line of Louise Cutting, well known for her articles in Threads, as well as a line of casual, classic and stylish patterns.  This one is In the Trenches, finished this weekend.

The fabric is a cotton/linen from Joanne’s.  When I purchased it, I had thought it was a woven stripe, but it turned out to be printed.  Shame on me for not checking closer.  Still, I like the color, and think it’s summery without screaming.

The pattern has a shoulder shield that is longer in back than the front, mock french cuffs, fold-over collar and a hidden button placket.

I had fun playing with the stripes, using vertical for the primary shirt, then horizontal for the accent pieces.

I entertained the notion of cutting some of the elements on the bias, then decided I didn’t want quite that much headache with the assembly as bias stretches – sometimes a lot!

The shirt was started at the Sew-In during the end of June and finally finished the end of July.  Hey, there were intervening projects! Life got in the way!

The overall assembly was straight forward.  As with all her patterns Louise provides a wealth of information in the instructions, which I found quite useful.  While some of the pieces look a bit odd (the cuffs in particular seemed wonky to me, until the Ah-Ha went off) they really do go together well.

The photo at left shows the inside of the front placket.  You don’t see the horizontal stripes when the shirt is buttoned, but they peek out every once in a while when the placket opens.

At right is the mock French cuff.  The upper half buttons regularly, then the lower half folds up and extends out.  Like I said, oddly shaped pattern piece, but it works.

Oh, and top stitching.  There is both edge stitching and top stitching on this shirt.  Lots and lots and lots.  Keep an extra bobbin wound.

Ready. Set. Sew!

In 2 weeks, at the end of June, it will be time for Sew-In 2010, and I can’t wait!

I think I’m just about ready too!  Patterns have been traced.  Fabric has been cut and interfacing ironed on.  Thread, zippers and buttons have been acquired.  I’m sure there is something I will forget, but for now, whatever it is escapes me.

These are the six items I hope to finish:

• One pair of denim shorts which hopefully won’t look too Daisy Mae.
• A denim skirt. Always useful.
• Hibiscus Shirt from Sewing Workshop, finally cutting into some good fabric
• A shirt / jacket from Louise Cutting’s pattern line.  I plan to have a lot of fun with the stripes on this one.  They go every which way!
• Another New Look shirt.  I spent so much time fitting this pattern, I plan to get a lot of use out of it
• Lastly, another pair of Marrakesh pants with embroidered flip flops.

The Sew-In is a weekend  retreat, running from Friday through Sunday which is put on by my local ASG chapter.  We take over one of the local hotels in an all-inclusive sewing extravaganza.  80 people all sewing away in their grand ballroom.  We overnight, so can sew as late as we wish.  We are fed, so no need to leave the premises.  It’s wonderful! No worries.  No fuss.  No bother.

I usually take more than I ever complete, so I’ve scaled back this year.  Now my concern is will I have enough to do?  Maybe I better toss in one more thing….