*#(@*&! Degrees

Standard

Sometimes, thing are just going along a wee bit too perky.  That was the case with my pre-vacation sewing.  Things fitted.  Patterns worked.  Stripes lined up. I knew it was too good to be true.

Just before we left, I finished embroidering a shirt, which I had planned to take on our trip.  Machine Embroidery.  Those with a discerning eye will notice the past tense of that sentence.

IMG_3360I used a Wet & Gone fusible stabilizer, ironed to the  inside of the t-shirt.  It appeared to stick pretty well, and the t-shirt behaved.  No puckers, design shifts or anything untoward.

I was feeling lucky.  (You have an idea where this is going, don’t you?)

Anyway, the instructions on this stuff said to use a 260° iron.  What’s with these instructions?  I don’t know of any irons that are  calibrated in degrees.   At least, not degrees on the dial.IMG_3364

My iron, pictured at right, comes with settings labeled cotton, wool, linen, silk and synthetic.  Nary a 260° mark on the dial.

So, I followed their directions (press cloth), and used what seemed appropriate to get the stuff to stick.  It stuck.  I embroidered.

IMG_3361 I washed the backing off, to be met with this hot mess! Waaaahhh! Washing did not remove the glue.  In fact, it feels like sandpaper against the skin.

I put the whole thing aside, with a plan to revisit once I returned from vacation.

I was looking at this the other night, knowing I still had a whole roll of the stabilizer.   Embroidery stabilizer is expensive.  I didn’t want to toss this nearly new roll.  Being a geek,  I donned my Junior Scientist beanie (Scientists don’t wear traditional hats), and decided I’d find out if this stuff would co-habitate with my non-260-degree marked iron.  Time to experiment!

IMG_3362Experimentation produced this->  I ironed on one square of stabilizer at each marked setting of my iron.  Let the fabric cool, then ironed another square at the next highest setting, being careful not to touch any previous tests.

The white glob on the right is at the linen setting.  This stuff literally melts!  Things work backwards to cotton, wool, etc.  The two faint blocks on the bottom are silk on the left, and 1/2 way between silk and synthetic on the right.  Anything less, and the stuff (that’s a technical term) wouldn’t stick.  Those look to be the best settings for this stabilizer.  There is also some glue residue left after washing in warm, then hot water.

Will I use up the roll?  Probably.  Will I purchase more of this brand?  Absolutely not! I am displeased with their instructions, not just the 260 degree bit, but no hint to test things first, caveats to watch out for, etc.  I also don’t like that there is still a little residue left behind, even after washing.

Thanks for reading my little rant! You may now return to your normal Blog-O-Sphere.

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2 responses »

  1. One thing that I hate doing (and the list is long) is testing things first. Like you, I would have gone straight to the chase. Well 260 degrees sounds pretty hot to me.

    A few years ago I agreed with my daughter that I would stencil paint a chest of drawers. She said’ Let’s practice first on some spare wood’ I thought ‘How boring’, but I knew it sounded sensible – just as well. Stencilling is not nearly as easy as I imagined. However, the chest of drawers did look pretty.

    Good luck with your next project.

  2. Hi: I feel your pain! A couple of years ago I bought a Naomoto gravity feed iron and with it came the following info which I typed up, put in a plastic sheet protector and it now hangs on the wall next to the ironing board:
    170-210 F – Poly
    210-250 F – Rayon
    250-290 F – Silk
    290-330 F – Wool
    330-370 F – Cotton
    370-440 F – Linen
    I can’t believe how many times I look at it! (nor how organized I was about this)

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