Vogue 8598: Max and Matelasse


Vogue 8598 is a princess seam shirt with sleeve variations.  This pattern struck me as classic and stylish.  One of those wardrobe staples we’re always reading about, and that’s exactly what I was after.

I chose view D: straight long sleeves.  I made a couple of changes from the standard pattern.  Once again, I altered the collar á la Louise Cutting, so it is all one piece.  My fabric was fairly textural, so I opted to serge the edge of the front and fold it under once, rather than doing a double fold.  Other than those two changes, the shirt went together very easily.

What is it about black cats and white shirts?  Max inspecting my sewing skills.

As you can see from the fabric photo at right, this has all over embroidery.  In fact, it was very flat when I purchased it off the bolt.  After washing, the embroidery pulled in, and the whole fabric took on a matelassé look.  I rather liked this, and didn’t want to lose it when I started sewing.

This meant some experimenting with interfacing.  I usually use iron-on, but this would have flattened the texture.  I also didn’t want to lose the translucency that the  white had.  After pawing through the stash, and trying different things I had a eureka moment.  Silk organza! So, the collar, front and sleeve cuffs are all interfaced with this.  It’s sewn in, so doesn’t affect the embroidery loft, and provided enough stability for button holes.

Now, remember back to all those fitting muslins in the New Look shirt?  I actually used those changes to measure this pattern, which saved me from having to do a muslin, as well as knowing which of the multi-sized cutting lines to use.  I knew that extra work would come in handy!

The other cool thing? The way the embroidery shrank also gives the fabric some stretch, even though there’s not a lick of lycra in it!

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