We used the Palmer/Pletsch flat pattern method. Laurie, our instructor is a certified P&P teacher. We did not have to use Palmer / Pletsch patterns; any pattern would do.
It was great fun! Even more fun was all of us middle aged ladies prancing about in our camis and undies, tissue, pins and tape measure to hand. There are no wallflowers in this crowd.
I opted to work on a woven top, having a pants pattern that fit pretty well already. I know, sounds exactly opposite of what one normally has, but there you go.
Imagine my surprise when I was informed I needed a full bust adjustment. Moi?! Really? She who has spent her entire adult life among the…shall we say…lesser endowed populace now needs a full bust adjustment. Amazing!
I chose Butterick 6026 by Katherine Tilton as my test garment. The above photo is the end result of all the snips, spreads and tweaks. I had to add an inch to get the fronts to meet. This involved slashing, spreading and taping back together.
The pattern also has some tiny tucks as a design feature, and I decided to leverage those for the dart space. You can see this created three mini-darts coming in from the side. Rather than having radiating darts, I staggered the dart points, so the darts become shallower as they go down the torso.
I probably won’t put in the two lower tucks at all; this keeps with the threesome-ness of the rest of the tucks on the neckline and sleeves.
There were some adjustments on the back as well – mostly for forward shoulders and a high round back. No doubt the result of all these years in front of a computer. Those changes didn’t involve nearly as much slash / spread / tape, so no photo of that.
I am excited! Having this FBA gem of knowledge will help things fit better.