Tag Archives: linen

Burda: 6897 – Finishing Up


IMG_3678I know, a post about snow, followed by a post showing shorts.

Makes no sense.  I am truly all over the map in my sewing.

But, there was incentive to finish things up, and get the sewing table cleared of all the partial projects.  Perhaps this is one of the things that has contributed to my lack of posts?  Perhaps the rest of the chaos going on here?

Either way, I present, for your viewing and reading pleasure, another rendition of the Burda City Shorts, # 6897.

The fabric is a rough cotton from the local home dec fabric store.  At $3 / yard, I doubt it’s linen, though it has that heftiness to it.

I made one alteration, which was to raise the pocket openings by an inch.  Big Mistake!  Somehow, this threw off the whole fit for the waist & tummy.  I have no idea why, as there was no change in the width, but change it did.  Ripping of seams, and resewing ensued.  Now they mostly fit, though not as good as the first pair.  I see pattern research in my future.

These will go in the amoire for now, to wait their turn come spring.


Sunshine in Capri


IMG_3017These will probably be the last of the capris I make between now and next summer.  I think I have enough pair that (mostly) fit to see me through Fall.  If not, well, I shall just have to do some laundry!

These are a lovely lemon yellow linen with a not-too-bright complementary paisley.  I believe the fabric is from Fabric.com  One of those items tossed in the cart to reach $35 to get free shipping.

The pattern is my standard Jalie 968, now out of print.  Pockets in front.  Pockets in back.  A girl can never have to many pocketses.

The only design changes I made were to shorten, then narrow the legs so they don’t look like marsh waders.  This fabric is much too pretty for marsh muck.


Road to Marrakesh


IMG_2551Or at least feeling like I’m on the road to Marrakesh.  These were done at Sewing Camp, but took a while to finish.  To be precise, I had find a button, stitch the button hole, then attach the button.

Isn’t it amazing how long the piddly little finishing details can take?  Simply Amazing!

These will see a lot of use come summer.  They’re comfortable and stylish.  One of my go-to patterns, courtesy of Trudy and Jeremy over at Hotpatterns.

This is one of their older patterns from the Wong-Singh Jones line.  It’s been around for several years.  I won’t go into a whole lot of sewing detail, except to point out that they do have a zipped fly, elastic waist and pockets.  Glorious pockets!

The pattern calls for a drawstring, to which the elastic is attached, but I decided to skip that part.  I have another pair I made with said drawstring, and am forever getting the ends caught in things.  Like the zipper.IMG_2553

The fabric is some sort of linen/cotton blend from the local craft emporium.  Truth be told, I was rather surprised to find something like this there; it looks so high-end.

It’s a lovely ecru color, which is overprinted with a gold damask pattern.  You can almost make out the overprinting in the photo at the right.  The print is both much brighter and more subtle in person.  It gives a shimmer effect.

Dressy and comfortable.  I like.



Relax a Little

There was sewing over the long weekend at Casa Thunderpaws.  In fact, it was a brand new pattern with brand new(ish) fabric!  This is Relax a Little from Cutting Line Design patterns.  I picked it up when I went to the Louise Cutting workshop a while back.

The pattern is über easy to make.  I was amazed!  The fitting is very simple, with great directions for doing so.  The sewing even more so, with pockets no less!

The photo at left shows how invisible the pockets are.  They are in the side seams, but don’t have any of the bulk that you normally get with in-seam pockets.  The pocket bag is a single layer, cut as one with the back of the skirt, which helps to eliminate seams.  At right, you can see where I tucked my label into one of the pockets.

The fabric is something called Brussels Washer, which is a linen/rayon blend.  Be warned, this stuff shrinks, so you need to run it through the washer and dryer several times before cutting anything out, which I did.  The elastic at the waist was very simple to install.  A couple rows of stitching to hold it in place, then a zap with a steamy iron to “whoosh” everything into place.  Whoosh is a technical term…but you knew that.

Let’s see, what else is there to say?  The pattern runs long.  Very long.  I made it the out-of-the-envelope length to see where it would hit.  Once hemmed, it’s about 6 inches above the floor on me.  The next one will be shorter.

There was also sewing of gifties, but I can’t show those to you yet.  Patience grasshopper, patience.

Sewing Workshop: Plaza Jacket


It’s finally finished!   The very last of the 2010 UFOs. 
Happy Dance!
Happy Dance! Happy Dance!

Of course, this particular version doesn’t follow the pattern exactly.  The back has a modified section, which is a patchwork of antique kimono fabrics from Ah Kimono! This section is also an exercise in different types of seams – there’s french seams, hong kong finished seams and turned under seams.

To answer the question of the discerning reader, no, I did not applique the patchwork onto the back, I used the slice & dice method, and reworked the back of the pattern.  This is where the polka-dot bias strips came into play.  I ran out of the orange bias.

The body of the jacket is a silk/linen blend.  At $35/yard it is one of the most expensive fabrics I’ve worked with in a while.  I pre-washed it and also hand-washed the silk patchwork before assembly.  This way, I know I can hand wash the whole garment if needed.

The body fabric will be very nice to wear, but was less than stellar to work with.  It sews nicely, but the stripes are actually a seersucker-like texture, and they did not lend themselves to creating a truly straight edge, which this pattern really needs.  Eventually we came to an understanding, the fabric and I.

There’s a wee little bit of interfacing in the collar, Pro-Tricot fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply. Very nice stuff.

I particularly like the embroidered piece at the shoulder.  This will be a nice little jacket to keep the chill off when the A/C is running full blast during the Cactusville summers.

Hot Patterns: Marrakesh Pants


Flora takes to lounging about in her new Hot Patterns Marrakesh pants.   Aren’t they just the the elephants trumpet!  (You know, like cat’s meow, except saying cat’s meow in Marrakesh doesn’t have an exotic zing, now does it?) These are from a mediocre quality linen I picked up at Joann’s.  They are also part of the ongoing stash reduction efforts.

Ahem.  Stash reduction.  Yes.  Well, maybe.  One of these days.  Perhaps.  Back to the pants!

The pattern came out – I think it was last summer, from the lovely Trudy and Jeremy of Hot Patterns.  It’s taken until now for me to give them a whirl, and I must say, they are lovely!  Simple enough to put together, that I didn’t even look at the (wordy and pictorial) instructions.

Not only that, I traced a straight 12, measured the pattern against my TNT Jalie pants, and guess what?  No changes needed!  Woohoo!

A feature I like about this pattern is there’s an extra piece which you use to face the pocket opening, so the non-matching pocket bag doesn’t show.  At first, I wasn’t sure about this, but as I wore them, and saw how this little addition operated in day-to-day wear, I liked it more and more.  It sure beat sewing an extra piece on top, and adding thickness where thickness is not needed.

Yes, these pants also have my traditional, non-traditional, non-matching pocket lining and waistband facing.   If I should ever follow instructions, and make the facings/interior waistband out of fashion fabric my friends have strict instructions to take me away for deprogramming.  Space aliens will have invaded my body.

Maybe I went a little overboard on these, since the zipper isn’t  color coordinated either.  It’s what I had to hand, and I was not going out just to get a white zipper.  I used 1 inch elastic, threaded through the waistband, which gives a bit more substance than something thinner would.

What doesn’t show up in the photos is the fact that the fabric has a silver thread through it, so the pants have a subtle sparkle when they move.

What I did wrong – used generic bias binding for the ties.  I think they need something softer, for a loopier bow.  I also made the fly shield too large.  It shoud be at least 1/2 inch narrower.  But that’s a minor nit.

Hmmm.  I wonder how these would work up as shorts?

BWOF #112 6/2009


BWOF_6112_d The capris are done! Don’t they look lovely on Flora?

Burda World of Fashion (BWOF as it’s sometimes called) is a combination fashion / pattern magazine from Germany.  Besides en courant photos of up and coming styles, the magazine also includes a center tear out section, where you can trace off all, I repeat, all the clothes shown in the magazine.

Of course, since all sizes are included on the same pages, following the lines for the right pattern and size can be a bit tedious.

The style is for capri pants that are beachy, with wide legs, a shaped waistband, with small front pleats and in-seam pockets.  I liked that idea!

That said, these didn’t turn out quite as well as I had hoped.  They are certainly wearable, and I will wear them, but they’re just not what was in my mind’s eye.

BWOF_6_112_bThe fabric is a an embroidered cotton / linen blend from Big Box*.  A very limp linen.  It stretched in the waist once cut; but I was able to corral that by increasing the size of the front pleats, and doing a little judicious gathering and button placement.

The in-seam pockets went in very well.  I like those!  I did my usual waistband facing – something from the leftover bin.  In this instance, it helped, as the yellow cotton provides more stability than just interfacing the fashion fabric would have.  It doesn’t alter then exterior look either.

These will work in Cactusville.  What I’ll do on the next pair: take in the overall width of the front by a bit, narrow the legs, us a fabric with more body.  Yes, Virginia, there will be a next pair!

BWOF 6_112_a

*Big Box, aka the chain store that begins with J.