Hot Patterns: Tailored T

Yes, tis true, the weather is getting cooler here.  That said, this top was made a while back and is just now percolating to the top of the blog.

This is my fitting muslin, if you will, made from some lovely brushed poly knit.  Let me tell you, this fabric feels soooo wonderful – both to the hand and to the bod.

About the pattern:  overall, I like it, though on me it does run big.  And as a friend said to me “A t-shirt with darts?  You have darts?”  Yes, there are small fitting darts.

The yellow side part does not have a seam, so it joins front to back.  Not the best way to fit things, hence there’s a seam straight down the middle of both the front and back to make the top wearable.  I took in an inch with each one.

Rather than try a baby hem on the sleeves, I doubled them up with the yellow, so they are heavier, and the yellow pokes out the bottom.

Future changes?  I may take some width out of the sides as well, and work on the dart placement.  It’s not quite right, though with a knit the pointies are not obvious.  Or maybe remove it all together, as I am not so well endowed as to need darts.

While the top is currently out of rotation (see comment on weather above) it will get a lot of use next year.

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New Look 6150: IV

The weather is getting colder here.  27 this morning when the Princess decided she needed to go out.  We are well into fall, which means long sleeves.

This one is done just in time for the holidays!  A lovely emerald green knit with gold sequins.

I’ve made this pattern many times before, and must not be the only one who likes it, as it is still in print.  Imagine that!

Nothing unusual in the construction.  No alterations either.  Sewn on the serger and hemmed on the cover stitch.  I find that for the narrower sleeves like this, it’s easier to hem them flat, then sew up the sides.

Vogue 8793

img_4188Even though it continues in the 80s here in the Sierras, rumor has it that Fall is on the way.  OK, we’ve already passed the first day of Fall, and the weather pundits assure me that cooler weather is right around the corner.

In preparation for this Momentous Event (should it ever happen) I stitched up another long sleeve T to wear.  This is the pattern that Marcy & Katherine Tilton offer in their Craftsy class, The Ultimate T-Shirt.  Once you get the fit adjusted, it’s a lot of fun to play around with.

This time I opted to change up the collars and cuffs with different colors.  The shirt body and sleeves are all the same fabric.  Speaking of fabric, this is another one of the Nicole Miller knits from Joann fabrics.  The solid knits were in the stash, probably from when the Evil Fabric Queen was offering luscious rayons.

Wow!  Now that I see the photo, I did a darn good job of placing the design.  Wish I could take credit for actually thinking about that, but I didn’t.  Pure happenstance.

Style Arc: Maggie 2

IMG_4032I made a resolution with myself to clear the cutting table this summer.  All the fabric piled around the edges waiting, waiting, waiting.

A second rendition of the Style Arc Maggie was just the ticket.  Both pieces of fabric were from the Phoenix Sew-In RumMage sale.  It’s been five years since I attended, so that will give you an idea of how long this has hidden in the stash.  It’s reached an age of being wearable (similar to wines that are drinkable).

The fabric is a rayon woven.  Quite drapy, and most suitable for Maggie.

I made two changes this time around.

The band collar is 1/4 inch larger than the original pattern.  I attached it using a modification of the Louise Cutting collar technique: it was sewn to the blouse body before the band top was stitched.  I know, that doesn’t make sense, but it’s really a much easier way to do this.  I’m also pretty sure there’s a tutorial on youtube somewhere.

The second change was adding more width to the back, having the pleat be fuller.  I wanted more floatiness.

I wore this with leggings and ballet flats. There were many compliments.

McCalls: 6076

IMG_4011Sooo, what’s different about this?

That’s right, it HAS SLEEVES!  But, just barely.  Don’t look inside, those armscye seams are hanging on by a serged thread.  But, it has SLEEVES.

I transmogrified my fitting adjustments to this pattern.  It’s a princess seam top, with a non-banded collar.

The fabric is a cotton dobby from the local fabric outlet.  Garment fabric pickings are slim here in Sierraville, so this was a rare find.  I like the dottiness of the fabric, even though it made my eyes cross while sewing it.

The grid also made it very easy to align the pattern on grain, and match the seams.  The back seams match almost perfectly!  Now, why is it when I try ever so hard to have that happen, measuring thrice and cutting once, it rarely does?  Must be one of Einsteins lesser known laws.  The Law of Pattern Alignment.

I did my usual funky facing using some scraps of quilting cotton.  Black with little red roses for the front facing, under collar and sleeve hem.

I had thought to add buttons.  Since the fabric is a bit thick, I may just wear it as a topper over colored tanks.  That will be nice when out after dark, and the temps cool down.

Style Arc: Maggie

IMG_4002Ever since I’ve made this, I simply cannot get the Bob Dylan song out of my mind…”Don’t want to work on Maggie’s Farm No More”

Maybe if we all sing a few bars, that’ll get it out of my head?

Another acquisition from the Style Arc pattern sale.  This one is definitely a winner.  I was looking for something comfy to wear with leggings, for those days when you have to get dressed, but would really rather stay in your bath robe and ducky slippers.

Maggie fits the bill perfectly.  I checked the sizing on the patterns, and let the finished width determine what size I cut.  Since this is a fairly loose, flowy design, I decided to try the first one with no pattern alterations.  Fit perfect right out off the paper.

One caveat.  The instructions for stitching the front placket are minimal at best.  I suppose this is in keeping with Style Arc’s assumption that we all know what we’re doing.  Sometimes.  Sometimes, not so much.  Thankfully there are three images on the Etsy web site section for this pattern that shows how to fold the front placket.  Mark your fold lines!

I used those as a guide, and everything turned out.  The fabric is an I-don’t-know-what which I picked up several years back at the Phoenix Sew-In RuMmage table.  It feels like a challis, which is what the pattern calls for.

I see more Maggie’s in my future.

Kwik Sew: 3658

IMG_3942I have a purchased top similar to this which I like very much.  It has sort of a shawl collar and a center front seam.  The front on the purchased top is doubled fabric, so in essence it is self-facing / self-lining.

K3658This pattern is a very nice duplicate of that shirt.  Not exactly the same, but close enough.  The fabric is another from the ongoing stash-buster exercise, long aged in the fabric bins.

This being Kwik Sew, the pattern paper is thick, and I usually trace off my size onto tissue.  I was amazed – no fitting changes needed at all.  A medium fit right out of the envelope.  The only thing I did was to stitch the center front seam a bit higher.  I’m past the age where showing cleavage is de rigeur.

If anyone else is interested, the pattern is still in print as well.

Happy Dance!